Monday night in Jean Torné’s Seasonal Kitchen, at the Concord Institute. It ain’t just Beetroot being carpaccio’d this week, it’s our very hearts.
Delicious plates prepared by Niall Allen and his team for the Concord Institute Christmas dinner last week. A hearty Chestnut and Watercress Soup followed by a plate of Poached Salmon in Nori sheets; Red Rice; Roasted Shallots; Pureed Carrots; Blanched Kale and Broccoli; and pickled Beetroots of all shapes and colours. Simply delightful.
A meal prepared by students of the Foundation Course at the Concord Institute, under the guidance of Francoise Auvray. Bulghur with Onions; Lentil Stew with Pickled Peppers; pressed Carrot Salad; Roasted Sweet Potato with Rocket and Walnut Pesto and Cabbage Rolls.
I was recently invited to a talk and demonstration at the Japan Embassy by renowned Japanese chef Mari Fuji, author of ‘The Enlightened Kitchen’ and proponent of ‘Shojin Ryori.’ Written with the kanji characters of ‘spirit’ and ‘progress,’ Shojin Ryori is often described as ‘soul food’ which has been sustained by monks for almost 1200 years. Shojin cuisine has numerous physical and spiritual benefits. However, more than being just a dining experience, it is also a way to celebrate and respect nature and its seasonality. Shown here are images from a hands-on cooking class held by Mari Fuji at The Grocery in Shoreditch, supported by Atsuko’s Kitchen. Thanks to Yukiko Amatsu for the images, and the invitation to the event. See Mari Fuji in action on youtube.
Mock dishes: Shojin style tofu make from Kuzu; Boiled Egg made from Tofu and Pumpkin; Grilled Eel made from potato and Toasted Nori.
Tofu steak with daikon mochi served with mushroom ankake sauce.
Autumnal Tempura of root vegetables.
Soy milk and mushroom soup.
Brussel Sprouts with peanut dressing; Taro served with Miso; Daikon steak; Mushroom with sweet rice; Ume flavored picked radish; Rikyu soup (Turnip miso soup); Gammodoki (deep fried Tofu ball).
Matcha Tiramisu.
Coming up: ‘Soup Kitchen No.2:’ the second in a series of Monday Evening cooking classes held at the Happy Kitchen Canteen. In the next class on Monday 21 November, we’ll create a Hearty Onion Soup from scratch using homemade Vegetable Stock and organic, seasonal produce. We’ll then enjoy a bowl of Soup with a healthy portion of the E5 Bakehouse’s ‘Hackney Wild’ Sourdough. There’s limited places, so get in quick! To book, call 020 8525 4994 or email booking@happykitchen.org.uk.
A day or two has passed since the mighty All Blacks came through all manner of adversity to triumph at the World Cup. The final itself was a harrowing experience, and I count the team fortunate to hold out in the face of a spirited French performance. However, throughout the tournament I was struck by a unique sense of spirit which flowed around the team, in individuals, but more so collectively as a squad. At times, individuals came forward: Piri Weepu (the leader of the Haka, pictured) was virtually canonised for his exploits in the middle stages of the tournament. Plenty of stars and stalwarts of the game bowed out with injuries, giving other men opportunities to come forward. In the All Blacks, there is a sense of honour in wearing the shirt which taps into a sense of lineage and ancestry, uniting Maori and Pakeha (European New Zealanders) to a common cause, and giving a sense of accountability which transcends the individual. In the performance of the Haka, there is a celebration in facing challenges of life, but in doing so, knowing that we do not stand alone. We gather strength from others around us, from our tupuna (ancestors) and the earth beneath our feet. These men played for each other, and for others that came before them.
Inspired by the spirit of my homeland, I asked my friend Karl Burrows (co-founder of Manaia) for a karakia to share with participants of Mutsuko’s Seasonal Kitchen course at the final Saturday meal. A karakia is offered, like a prayer, to acknowledge and give thanks. It is a call, like the Haka, which rings out across the world, and across the ages:
Nau mai e nga hua e hora nei
I haere mai na koe
I whakatipu a Nuku
I whakatipu a Rangi
Tawhia ki a Rehua
Ki a tama I te ao marama
E rongo whakairia ake ki runga kia tina
Tiina!
Hui e!
Taiki e!
Welcome, acknowledging the food, produce here laid out before us today, given to us by you, sustained and nurtured by the earth, by the heavens, acknowledging Rehua (the star that guides us in harvest seasons), to humanity in the present time (Te Ao Marama, the world of light). Peace, let us suspend these ideas above us, so that we can all embrace them, together it is firm.
Participants of the first Soup Kitchen session at Happy Kitchen prepare Celeriac for the Soup: a Hearty Vegetable and Miso Soup topped with Spring Onions, Toasted Sesame Seeds and Bonito Flakes. The next Soup Kitchen Cooking Class is scheduled for Monday 21 November, with theme to be confirmed. One things for sure, it’ll be another warm, hearty, autumnal soup prepared from scratch using beautiful homemade stock. To book your place, contact the Happy Kitchen on 020 8525 4994 or by email.
Moments from the Saturday completion meal, a true family affair, following a plan laid out by Mutsuko Johnson, with plenty of room for creativity and inspiration. A vivid example of what can occur, when a group of people come together in the kitchen to cook with love, appreciation and awareness.
Green Tea Somen Noodle Sushi. No, I’ve never seen anything like this before either.
A roasted Onion, fresh from the oven, does its best Seashell impression.
The final platter, overflowing with delights. Rice Ball with Gomasio; Onion, Carrot & Lotus Root Skewers; Warm Beetroot and Turnip Salad with Tahini Miso dressing; Roasted Onions; Squash Tempura; Blanched Greens.
To finish, a slice of divine Pumpkin Pie, with a healthy drizzle of Soya Cream.
Mutsuko leads the class through a delicious, simple lunch meal of one-pot Nabe made with Carrots, Leeks, Hokkaido Pumpkin, Cauliflower, Broccoli, fresh and dried Tofu, Kombu and Shiitake; accompanied by a delightful stir-fried leftover Rice with Carrots, Hijiki, Burdock Root, Sesame Seeds and condiment.
Friday night’s meal: Chestnut Rice, Haddock with Kuzu Sauce, Winter Greens with Walnut Sauce, followed by Guinness Cake with Soya Cream.
